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Ms. Janet Rata anak Noel, PhD Candidate

Janet Rata Noel is from the Iban ethnic group from Sri Aman, Sarawak, Malaysia. She is the Curator for the Museum and Gallery Division at the Tun Jugah Foundation, Kuching, Sarawak.  She started weaving in 1998 at the foundation, working in both ikat (kebat/tie-and-dye resist technique) and Iban sungkit textiles (supplementary weft-wrapping technique).

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She graduated with a bachelor’s degree in library science from, UiTM, Malaysia, in 1984 and a Master of Arts degree in Library and Information Science from the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA, in 1985; and a Master of Arts degree in Museum Studies from the University of Leicester, United Kingdom in 1997. She is in her final year as a PhD Candidate at the Department of Anthropology and Sociology, Faculty of Arts and Social Science, Universiti Malaya, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and her thesis title is “Conserving and sustaining Indigenous Knowledge in Pua Kumbu Production”.

 

Her academic and research interests include the arts, history, material culture, textiles and other local traditions. She has presented several papers and conducted/facilitated workshops and demonstrations on Iban textiles and weaving at home and abroad.

Iban Traditional Textiles

The Iban people of Sarawak are well-known for their weaving skills and, they traditionally practice at least four to five different weaving techniques, all done on the back-strap loom. One of the weaving techniques practised by the Iban is the ikat or kebat, a tie-dye resist technique where the designs are created by tying selected warp threads. This method is used to produce the pua kumbu (ceremonial blanket).

 

The second weaving technique is ‘sungkit’, a supplementary weft-wrapping technique where the designs are created by wrapping coloured threads around the warp threads using a sulat (bodkin) before the threads are locked in by the main weft thread. This technique is tedious and time-consuming. Another weaving technique called subak or silak (a tapestry weave technique) is sometimes used to incorporate designs at the back end of a man’s woven vest. The fourth technique is called anyam, karap, sulam, or sidan which is a supplementary weft-weave technique where the designs created are determined by heddles (karap). The technique uses silver, gold or coloured threads for the design. The fifth weaving technique is pilih (selecting a group of alternate warps by counting to create the design). It is a supplementary weft technique in which the design elements stand out in the background. This technique is also complicated, and the counting process is very time-consuming. This is one of the oldest techniques used and is no longer common among today’s weavers.

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